Monday, October 24, 2005
Friday, October 07, 2005
To potential buyers of the Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T
Hi everyone,
First of all, thank you for your interest! There's a lot of people who e-mailed me about my car, so I tossed up this page to help you all decide if you want actually come see it/buy it.
I was able to take pictures of the car today. I took it at EVERY angle and showed all of the exterior. So, please look at it carefully and then decide if you want to see it in person, as to not waste my time nor yours.
The VIN # for my car is: 4A3AK54F6XE012397. I have the Carfax history if any of you want it through e-mail. Just ask.
This car is sold AS IS (as all other used cars).
Please, serious inquiries only. E-mail me if you're interested: lingcar@gmail.com.
Thank you!
-Ling
First of all, thank you for your interest! There's a lot of people who e-mailed me about my car, so I tossed up this page to help you all decide if you want actually come see it/buy it.
I was able to take pictures of the car today. I took it at EVERY angle and showed all of the exterior. So, please look at it carefully and then decide if you want to see it in person, as to not waste my time nor yours.
The VIN # for my car is: 4A3AK54F6XE012397. I have the Carfax history if any of you want it through e-mail. Just ask.
This car is sold AS IS (as all other used cars).
Please, serious inquiries only. E-mail me if you're interested: lingcar@gmail.com.
Thank you!
-Ling
Test Drives
Here is information for test drives:
1. Priority will be given to people who will pay cash.
2. I must have cash in hand for you to be in the driver's seat. I'll be in the passenger seat to go with you (so that I don't run off with your cash). My reason for this is that I don't have full insurance for this car, so if you wreck it while test driving it, it's yours. Please be a confident/good driver, because I value my life too.
3. I will take people around in the car if we don't go route #2.
Payment arrangements:
Paying by cash is the easiest way. You give me money and I'll give you the keys and title and we're done.
I'll take cashier's check, but I want to see you make it out at a bank before our transaction. I'm simply paranoid about fake checks.
If you look really trustworthy, then I'll consider credit card payment. You would then need to paypal the amount to me. You also need to pay that extra 2.5% or whatever that PayPal charges. I take a picture of you and then give you the car to drive away. When the money clears (2-3 days), I will then give you the title of the car. If your money doesn't clear and I can't get in contact with you, I report you to the police about a stolen car and provide them with your picture. So, yeah, it's probably easier just to pay cash =).
1. Priority will be given to people who will pay cash.
2. I must have cash in hand for you to be in the driver's seat. I'll be in the passenger seat to go with you (so that I don't run off with your cash). My reason for this is that I don't have full insurance for this car, so if you wreck it while test driving it, it's yours. Please be a confident/good driver, because I value my life too.
3. I will take people around in the car if we don't go route #2.
Payment arrangements:
Paying by cash is the easiest way. You give me money and I'll give you the keys and title and we're done.
I'll take cashier's check, but I want to see you make it out at a bank before our transaction. I'm simply paranoid about fake checks.
If you look really trustworthy, then I'll consider credit card payment. You would then need to paypal the amount to me. You also need to pay that extra 2.5% or whatever that PayPal charges. I take a picture of you and then give you the car to drive away. When the money clears (2-3 days), I will then give you the title of the car. If your money doesn't clear and I can't get in contact with you, I report you to the police about a stolen car and provide them with your picture. So, yeah, it's probably easier just to pay cash =).
Craigslist posting
Here is the posting in case you forgot:
1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T
$3750, o.b.o.
97,xxx miles
• Premium package – leather seats, doors, steering wheel, etc.
• CD player, Cassette, AM/FM Stereo
• Infinity Sound system
• Fog lights installed
• Turbo charged, 210 hp 2.0 liter 4 cylinder
• Automatic with overdrive button
• Sunroof that rises out of the car.
• Cruise control, intermittent wipers
• Keyless remote entry
• Two Alarms: factory horn alarm set by key and aftermarket (viper?) alarm system controlled with the remote/door opener.
• 3 doors—2 side doors and a hatchback—with rear seats (lowers insurance)
• High eclipse spoiler
• No aftermarket mods installed ever by me. The car is at its factory status.
• AC works fine.
• Whatever that comes standard on the 1999 Eclipse GS-T is still on the car.
Other things:
• New timing belt, water pump at 80k miles.
• New tires Michelin Sport ZR rated 16 inch tires from Feb. of this year, at about 90k miles.
• Brakes changed at 60k miles.
• Radiator was replaced at 40k miles.
I’m the second owner of the car. I bought it when it was at about 40k miles. I have never run into any problems with it.
Mechanically, this car runs beautifully. The car has always been serviced at T&T Auto shop in Redwood City and the owners there can vouch for the mechanical condition of the car. I had the 75,000 mile checkup done at 80,000 miles, which included an entire overall inspection of the car and the changing of the timing belt and water pump. Oil was changed at about 3000 miles every time and I have always used synthetic oil. The battery is great and the car starts up every time, in cold and warm weather. There are no leaks on the car that I'm aware of.
Since there’s a factory turbo charger on this car, I’ve always used premium gas. I have also timed down the turbo after driving. I have a turbo timer for the car, but I never got it installed, but I’ll throw it in if you feel like installing it.
Why am I selling it:
I bought a new sports car. My landlord only lets me keep 2 vehicles at my condo complex and I have another family sedan along with my new car that I purchased (as well as a motorcycle). If I could keep it, I totally would, since I personally know that the car is a really good car and drives incredibly. The insurance for it is inexpensive and I’d just keep it around so I don’t put on as many miles on my new car. At 210 hp, it’s got some nice power.
Why am I selling it so cheap:
First of all, the car has a salvaged title. I bought it like that. I actually saw the car before it was fixed up, and the impact damage was located at the upper left side, at the wheel/driver’s side door hinge. I bought it because I saw no mechanical damage to the car at all (i.e. Engine / under the hood was not harmed at all. This is visible even nowadays upon inspection under the hood).
The car’s paint is fading. I went to Stanford and parked it outside for at least 4 years. During this time, nature did its damage to the paint. The car no longer retains most of its clear coat (the part that makes new cars shine like new cars).
The car has scratches and dings. The exterior is not pretty (it’s not ugly either. Ask me for pictures). I spun out in February this year after a rain (hence the new tires). I was caught by a fence and the fence left some scrape marks on the car. The left end bumper’s paint was also scratched off by the fence and the plastic cover for the back lights on that end is slightly cracked. The front bumper also has a tear (at the seams, so it’s not that noticeable). The wheels are painted alumnium and on 3 wheels, the alumninum has started peeling off. Anyways, it was a beautiful car, but now it’s got some big blemishes. If you’re all for appearances, then go look for another car. If you want to drive a nice, fast, comfortable, and reliable car that’s made in 1999 and you don’t care about its looks that much (or if you plan to do body work yourself), then this is the car for you.
Since my spin out, the car creaks a little, esp. at the driver’s side where it was originally damaged. The wheel’s alignment is also a bit off even though I got it realigned after the spin out. Their suggestion was to rotate the tires more frequently. After I replaced the timing belt, in really cold weather, it'll make some weird sounds for a few seconds right when you start it cold. I know it has to do with how tight/loose the timing belt was set and just needs to be adjusted by a mechanic. However, since it only occurred in cold weather and only for a few seconds, it never bothered me enough to take it in.
Lastly, I’m selling it cheap because I hate the whole process of artificially inflating the price just so that we’d bargain forever. I want it to get it off of my lot before my landlord notices an extra car.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have been extremely honest about this car. Serious inquiries please! I have the title in hand. I can also provide you with my VIN and the Carfax report if you want to see it. (got an account when buying my new car, so I looked up this one).
To see pictures of this car and for its other information, go to: http://eclipse.blogspot.com/
1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T
$3750, o.b.o.
97,xxx miles
• Premium package – leather seats, doors, steering wheel, etc.
• CD player, Cassette, AM/FM Stereo
• Infinity Sound system
• Fog lights installed
• Turbo charged, 210 hp 2.0 liter 4 cylinder
• Automatic with overdrive button
• Sunroof that rises out of the car.
• Cruise control, intermittent wipers
• Keyless remote entry
• Two Alarms: factory horn alarm set by key and aftermarket (viper?) alarm system controlled with the remote/door opener.
• 3 doors—2 side doors and a hatchback—with rear seats (lowers insurance)
• High eclipse spoiler
• No aftermarket mods installed ever by me. The car is at its factory status.
• AC works fine.
• Whatever that comes standard on the 1999 Eclipse GS-T is still on the car.
Other things:
• New timing belt, water pump at 80k miles.
• New tires Michelin Sport ZR rated 16 inch tires from Feb. of this year, at about 90k miles.
• Brakes changed at 60k miles.
• Radiator was replaced at 40k miles.
I’m the second owner of the car. I bought it when it was at about 40k miles. I have never run into any problems with it.
Mechanically, this car runs beautifully. The car has always been serviced at T&T Auto shop in Redwood City and the owners there can vouch for the mechanical condition of the car. I had the 75,000 mile checkup done at 80,000 miles, which included an entire overall inspection of the car and the changing of the timing belt and water pump. Oil was changed at about 3000 miles every time and I have always used synthetic oil. The battery is great and the car starts up every time, in cold and warm weather. There are no leaks on the car that I'm aware of.
Since there’s a factory turbo charger on this car, I’ve always used premium gas. I have also timed down the turbo after driving. I have a turbo timer for the car, but I never got it installed, but I’ll throw it in if you feel like installing it.
Why am I selling it:
I bought a new sports car. My landlord only lets me keep 2 vehicles at my condo complex and I have another family sedan along with my new car that I purchased (as well as a motorcycle). If I could keep it, I totally would, since I personally know that the car is a really good car and drives incredibly. The insurance for it is inexpensive and I’d just keep it around so I don’t put on as many miles on my new car. At 210 hp, it’s got some nice power.
Why am I selling it so cheap:
First of all, the car has a salvaged title. I bought it like that. I actually saw the car before it was fixed up, and the impact damage was located at the upper left side, at the wheel/driver’s side door hinge. I bought it because I saw no mechanical damage to the car at all (i.e. Engine / under the hood was not harmed at all. This is visible even nowadays upon inspection under the hood).
The car’s paint is fading. I went to Stanford and parked it outside for at least 4 years. During this time, nature did its damage to the paint. The car no longer retains most of its clear coat (the part that makes new cars shine like new cars).
The car has scratches and dings. The exterior is not pretty (it’s not ugly either. Ask me for pictures). I spun out in February this year after a rain (hence the new tires). I was caught by a fence and the fence left some scrape marks on the car. The left end bumper’s paint was also scratched off by the fence and the plastic cover for the back lights on that end is slightly cracked. The front bumper also has a tear (at the seams, so it’s not that noticeable). The wheels are painted alumnium and on 3 wheels, the alumninum has started peeling off. Anyways, it was a beautiful car, but now it’s got some big blemishes. If you’re all for appearances, then go look for another car. If you want to drive a nice, fast, comfortable, and reliable car that’s made in 1999 and you don’t care about its looks that much (or if you plan to do body work yourself), then this is the car for you.
Since my spin out, the car creaks a little, esp. at the driver’s side where it was originally damaged. The wheel’s alignment is also a bit off even though I got it realigned after the spin out. Their suggestion was to rotate the tires more frequently. After I replaced the timing belt, in really cold weather, it'll make some weird sounds for a few seconds right when you start it cold. I know it has to do with how tight/loose the timing belt was set and just needs to be adjusted by a mechanic. However, since it only occurred in cold weather and only for a few seconds, it never bothered me enough to take it in.
Lastly, I’m selling it cheap because I hate the whole process of artificially inflating the price just so that we’d bargain forever. I want it to get it off of my lot before my landlord notices an extra car.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have been extremely honest about this car. Serious inquiries please! I have the title in hand. I can also provide you with my VIN and the Carfax report if you want to see it. (got an account when buying my new car, so I looked up this one).
To see pictures of this car and for its other information, go to: http://eclipse.blogspot.com/
- This item has been posted by-owner.
pictures for the car
The following pictures shows the details of the car. Again, the car is great mechanically, but here's the details on the exterior: (Click on pictures for bigger version)
The front right (passenger) side of the car.
This is the front right side bumper.
This is the front right wheel. Notice the painted alumninum wheel's paint chips.
See the brand new treads. The tires were purchased in Feb at about $130 dollars each. Tires are filled with Nitrogen gas (heavier molecules, so it doesn't expand/compress due to heat as much like air)
Right rear wheel.
Rear right back bumper scratch from the spinout.
Rear end of the car.
Left (driver's) side of the car. The majority of the body damage from the spinout occurred on the right side. Note the place where the fence caught the back bumper (as I described in my CL posting). Note the scrape alongside the driver's door. More detailed pics follows.
Place where the fence caught the left rear bumper. Just a paint scratched off.
Crack in the left rear brake light plastic cover. The brake lights work fine.
Rear back tire/wheel. Condition is pretty good (I guess the only wheel with the paint chips is the front left one).
Front left tire. This is a new wheel ($350) that replaced a kinked wheel that was damaged in the spinout (note, this was bought Febuary). This wheel is entirely brushed alumninum I think... so it's not painted.
Left (driver's) side of the car.
Another pic of the driver's side, from the front.
Close up of the fence scrape/dent at the front left.
Driver's side door.
Front of the car. Some rock chips on the front bumper.
Front bumper crack at the seams. As I said, not extremely noticible.
Bottom of the bumper scrapes. The Eclipse is really low to the ground, so most used ones should have these scrapes, which comes from exiting parking lots that are more raised than usual.
Rock chips at the front.

Sunroof! Works well and comes out of the car for extra coolness.
2.0L DOHC 4 cylinder with 16 valves.
Stock factory turbo charger. The white thing to the right of the screw on the black hose.
Steering console. The wheel is wrapped in black leather.
Tacometer, Speedometer, Odometer, Fuel Gauge, Engine temp gauge. Note the actual miles on the car is 97k.
Turbo boost guage, oil pressure gauge. Both go up and down as you drive. Boost builds around 2300 rpm and gets in full effect by 2900-3000. Oil pressure goes to normal as you drive; it gets higher when the turbo is on and lower when the turbo isn't in effect. You can hear the turbo as you drive. It sounds like a healthy whistle.
CD player, AM FM stereo cassette. Infinity Sound System.
Air conditioning vents, back wiper switch (yes, there's a rear window wiper), Emergency blinkers, defrosters, etc.
Driver's side leather seats.
Passenger side seats, door, speaker, etc.
Rear seats. Interior is great. The seat belt buckle that's not showing is just sitting in the hole. You can pull it out when you want to use it.
Okay, that's all! E-mail me or call if you have other questions.
The front right (passenger) side of the car.
This is the front right wheel. Notice the painted alumninum wheel's paint chips.
See the brand new treads. The tires were purchased in Feb at about $130 dollars each. Tires are filled with Nitrogen gas (heavier molecules, so it doesn't expand/compress due to heat as much like air)
Right rear wheel.
Rear right back bumper scratch from the spinout.
Rear end of the car.
Left (driver's) side of the car. The majority of the body damage from the spinout occurred on the right side. Note the place where the fence caught the back bumper (as I described in my CL posting). Note the scrape alongside the driver's door. More detailed pics follows.
Place where the fence caught the left rear bumper. Just a paint scratched off.
Crack in the left rear brake light plastic cover. The brake lights work fine.
Rear back tire/wheel. Condition is pretty good (I guess the only wheel with the paint chips is the front left one).
Front left tire. This is a new wheel ($350) that replaced a kinked wheel that was damaged in the spinout (note, this was bought Febuary). This wheel is entirely brushed alumninum I think... so it's not painted.
Left (driver's) side of the car.
Close up of the fence scrape/dent at the front left.
Driver's side door.
Front of the car. Some rock chips on the front bumper.
Front bumper crack at the seams. As I said, not extremely noticible.
Bottom of the bumper scrapes. The Eclipse is really low to the ground, so most used ones should have these scrapes, which comes from exiting parking lots that are more raised than usual.
Rock chips at the front.
Sunroof! Works well and comes out of the car for extra coolness.
2.0L DOHC 4 cylinder with 16 valves.
Stock factory turbo charger. The white thing to the right of the screw on the black hose.
Steering console. The wheel is wrapped in black leather.
Tacometer, Speedometer, Odometer, Fuel Gauge, Engine temp gauge. Note the actual miles on the car is 97k.
Turbo boost guage, oil pressure gauge. Both go up and down as you drive. Boost builds around 2300 rpm and gets in full effect by 2900-3000. Oil pressure goes to normal as you drive; it gets higher when the turbo is on and lower when the turbo isn't in effect. You can hear the turbo as you drive. It sounds like a healthy whistle.
CD player, AM FM stereo cassette. Infinity Sound System.
Air conditioning vents, back wiper switch (yes, there's a rear window wiper), Emergency blinkers, defrosters, etc.
Driver's side leather seats.
Passenger side seats, door, speaker, etc.
Rear seats. Interior is great. The seat belt buckle that's not showing is just sitting in the hole. You can pull it out when you want to use it.Okay, that's all! E-mail me or call if you have other questions.
